The Peak Bolt Fund

Summer 2010

2010-11-19T06:17:00.000-08:00

Cheedale Cornice was fully dry for a large portion of the Summer (a rarity as only the central sections have dried out in previous years). Thus it received a great deal of attention from locals and visitors alike:

The following routes (not all located at the Cornice) were re-equipped by Jon Clark amongst others:

Taylor Made
Monumental Armblaster
That Was the River
Old Man River
Who’s line is it Anyway
Four Door
Powerplant
Devonshire Arms
Cordless/Cosmopolitan
The Ogre
De Vine (and another route at Rhubarb Buttress)
Lockless Monster
A Bigger Splash (the route)
Mecca Extension
Jehovah Kill

...and enjoyed by many.

In addition, the people involved in this work also spent a great deal of time and effort cleaning up a host of other routes which, though in no state to climb, didn’t need re-bolting.

Many thanks for their efforts and for all of the donations that made this work possible.

Rubicon

2008-06-30T12:45:00.000-07:00

Dangerous Brother's:
Re-equipped with 12mm stainless glue-ins. A new lower off was also added instead of the old twin pegs. The old bolts (allen key) still need removing.

Hot fun Closing:
Wire replaced with a 12mm glue in, as was the peg (bolt placed above the break). The first bolt was removed and the hole filled. Currently it has not been replaced as it appeared to be superfluous.

Current Condition of Fixed Gear

2008-06-23T18:00:00.000-07:00

Kristian Clemmow has produced the following lists:

Cheedale Cornice
WCJ Cornice
Rubicon

which indicate which bolts require re-bolting/cleaning etc.

Please DO NOT rely on the condition listed being accurate, observation was made entirely from the ground.

The BMC Participation Statement say that:
The BMC recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

Rubicon: Bolt observations

2008-06-23T17:56:00.000-07:00

NB = needs new bolts

SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving.

* = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.

Route

Bolt condition

Grade

Alimoany

Honeymoon Blues

E5 6b

Salar Maybe an extra lower off bolt

8a+

Caviar

8a+

Eugenics (OPEN PROJECT)

Let the Tribe Increase

7c+

The Dangerous Brothers

Too Old to be Bold Galvanised hangers on stainless bolts. Needs Replacing.

Hot Fun Closing

The Sissy

New resin bolts 2008

Zeke the Freak

New resin bolts 2008

The Bastard

Truely Awesome

7a+

Rubicon

7a+

Zeitgeist

No Jug, No Thug

E5 6b

The Bomb is Coming

WCJ Cornice: Bolt Conditions

2008-06-23T17:38:00.001-07:00

NB = needs new bolts

SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving.

* = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.

Route

Bolt condition

Grade

Incapacity benefit (NEW ROUTE)

OK

The Dole 1989

7b+

Yorkshire 8b Will have a mix of stainless etc.

8a+

Ape Index Never properly bolted.

8b+

The Weakling New bolts around the crux only

7c+

Brachiation Dance May need some new bolts and a better lower off (under lip)

7b+

The Free Monster Needs better lower off (under lip)

The Auctioneer

8a+

Rumble in the Jungle

8a+

Monsterosity

Albatrossity Dodgy bolts on lower half have been replaced

8a+

19a

Superfly

Simons new route

8a+

Eclipsed

The Disillusioned Glue Machine rebolted a few years ago with the wrong bolts and hangers

Empire Burlesque Re bolted, however bolts may need to be repositioned

7c+

The Nasty Man

Goldcrest

7c+

Sirius

7c+

Atilla the Hun

7a+

Cheedale Cornice: Bolt observations

2008-06-23T16:53:00.001-07:00

NB = needs new bolts

SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving.

* = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.

Route

Bolt condition

Grade

Ophelias Lobelia

NB*

7b+

Forehead Trombone

NB*

7b+

Sharp Practice

OK?

8a+

Masculine Power Trip

8a+

Mescaline Power Trip

Wright-On

NB*

7c+

Wright to Left

NB*

Taylor Made

NB*

Feminine Ego Trip

NB*

Nemesis

NB

8a+

Monumental Armblaster

NB

8a+

Malcolm X
Needs new bolts, however grade and conditions do not put it high on the list.

NB*

8b+

Last Eggs Before the M1
No point rebolting this as sharpholds has a project into monumental that will supersede this route.

NB

7c+

The Jug Jockey

NB

7c+

Dreadnaught
Needs new bolts, however grade and conditions do not put it high on the list.

NB*

The Roof Warrior

NB

Cry of Despair

(See slagging off rant of cordless madness)

Rapid City

That was the River

7b+

Streamline

7c+

This is the Sea
Bolts at start and finish need replacing.

7c+

Old Man River

NB

The Naive and Sentimental Lover
Could not see the bolts under the slime

Up the River Without a Paddle
Could not see the bolts under the slime.

6c+

Snails of the Riverbank

The Spiders from Mars

The next four routes were covered in so much slime that it was so hard to ascertain the condition of the bolts! (Slime or rust?)

The Monday Club

7a+

Trampled Underfoot

Gardener's Question Time

Rue Morgue

E4 6a

After the Goldfish

7a+

Crowd Control

Une Crime Passionel

E4 6a

A Basic Power Problem

E6 6b

Fey

E4 5c

War Memorial

Succubus

Shazam

E4 6a

Martial Music

40a

Clarion Call

Old bolts need removing and lower off improved with one new bolt

Poppy Fields Bolts need tightening up

OK

7b+

Armistice Day
This route has some ok bolts however; they are in the wrong place.

NB

Whose Line is it Anyway?

NB

7a+

Big Store

E5 6b

Egyptian Bizarre

E5 6b

Big Zipper

Is it worth rebolting?

NB*

7a+

Beelzebub

Is it worth rebolting?

NB*

7b+

Bored of the Lies

7b+

Ouijaboard

One or two bolts may need replacing

7c+

Four Door Dostoyevsky

8a+

Powerplant

Devonshire Arms

NB

8a+

53a

42

32 (New route)

8b+

54a

R'n'P

Some old bolts need removing and first bolt replacing.

Snatch (New Route)

Rebolted

8a+

Love Amongst the Butterflies

Lower off may need tidying up.

56a

Asia Shadow Player

New route

OK

Unleashing the Wild Physique

Cosmopolitan

T ?

E6 6b

Cordless Madness
Somebody attempted to rebolt this route in 2007. (Also cry of despair & unleashing) these new bolts should be disregarded and replaced.

7b+

Mandy

7b+

Flowers in the Dirt
.

The Third Order

Loco

OK

7b+

Too Pumpy for Grumpy

NB

Further Adventures in Greendale

OK

7b+

Old Man's Gambit

T

E2 5c

The Cornice man
.

OK

Re-equipping 08

2008-05-08T06:45:00.000-07:00

Upper Circle - WCJ
Pragma
Eat The Rich
The Inch Test

Cheedale

Entrée

High Tor

High Torquing
Wil E. Coyote
Pump Out The Squealies
Squeezing Out Sparks
Limelight

Turkey Dip Rocks

Step On It
The Land That Time Forgot
Animal Antics

Long Tor Quarry

Future Primitive

Rubicon

Zeke The Freak

WCJ Cornice

Albattrocitty – Recently done by Neil Bentley. Not using PBF kit, but thought I’d mention the fact it’s been done.

Jon C also mention he intends to do lots more down Cheedale soon, especially at Two Tier.

Not bolt related, but as an outcome of a meeting I had with Henry Folkhard and a guy from the Derbyshire Wildlife Trust last year, a number of Sycamores have been removed at the Embankment down Cheedale. This should hopefully mean that the good routes on the right end of the crag (Barefoot In A Pool Of Sharks, Fishing Without A Licence etc) should actually come into condition this year. There was also talk of removing some Sycamores from below The Nook, a great little crag in desperate need of sorting out (tree clearance and rebolting).

General points

What gets rebolted is largely a function of who is bolting and what they are interested in. Re-bolting is hard, time consuming work and it is therefore not surprising that when people take time and effort to do it they will re-bolt the things they or their friends want to climb. It is conceivable that people might criticise the emphasis of the re-bolting as elitist. All I can say is, if you have routes you want re-bolted, learn to place bolts (contact the BMC and badger them to do a workshop), ask me for the kit and do some bolting. So far the PBF has not done a great deal because we don’t have people with the time, skills and inclination to get bolting. So much so that I have been loath to make any further pleas for donations.
What work we have done has been mostly on relatively hard (upper 7 and 8 ) routes. This is for several reasons:
• Resources, both time and money are very limited.
• The bulk of the PBF funds have come from paypal donations, via email. To a large extend I therefore know who has donated what. A large proportion have been donations from people I have met at one time or another and who are or have been dedicated sport climbers operating in the (relatively) harder grades. I think it only fair that their interests/priorities are served first.
• Gary Gibson does a great job re-equiping the peaks easier routes. In all fairness, unless people come to us with a desire to get involved and use PBF funds on easier routes, if you want to see your money go to re-equiping lower grade routes you may be better off donating to Gary’s fund. This isn't a deliberate policy, it's simply a consequence of who has offered assistance bolting. I'm keen to see routes of all grades re-bolted.
• To a large extent the peak’s best sport routes (using stars in guides as a gauge) are either already fairly recently equipped or in the harder grades. This is partly because over the years Gary and others have put lot’s of work in at crags like Horseshoe, the Embankment, Harpur Hill etc. It is also related to the point below. There is an argument for re-quipping good quality routes before lower quality routes, even if the higher quality route will be less popular due to factors such as location and grade.
• Because many of the peak’s hard steep crags are also it’s dirtiest and wettest, the gear rots faster and the routes are more hassle to re-equip. I would caution anyone to be VERY careful which bolts they trust at the Cheedale Cornice!

Please, if you have time and you know how to bolt, get in touch. The crags are drying off at the moment, now is the time to get involved.
If you don’t know how to bolt but you want to get involved, hassle the BMC for a workshop. Start off by downloading the excellent info on the BMC website here: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2411

On a personal note I sometimes feel like an idiot for starting this bolt fund and then not really delivering the good as far as bolts in crags go (although we have raised a reasonable quantity, £1,500 approx, plus successfully bidding for a number of bolts from the BMC for re-equipment of the Cornices). I especially feel bad about accepting the donation of an expensive drill from Neil Foster, which has yet to see much action. I’d like to have the time to set an example by doing more bolting myself. On the other hand I have donated at least as much time as anyone else and a fair bit of money. Really I started this thing as a result of lots of people saying it needed doing. Me and Paul have put in the effort to start this fund, it would now be nice if a few more people threw their hats in the ring. I wish I had the time to do more, but the fact is I don’t, so unless I get some more offers of help the fund is not going to get used properly.