Rubicon

Dangerous Brother's:
Re-equipped with 12mm stainless glue-ins. A new lower off was also added instead of the old twin pegs. The old bolts (allen key) still need removing.

Hot fun Closing:
Wire replaced with a 12mm glue in, as was the peg (bolt placed above the break). The first bolt was removed and the hole filled. Currently it has not been replaced as it appeared to be superfluous.

Current Condition of Fixed Gear

Kristian Clemmow has produced the following lists:

Cheedale Cornice
WCJ Cornice
Rubicon

which indicate which bolts require re-bolting/cleaning etc.

Please DO NOT rely on the condition listed being accurate, observation was made entirely from the ground.

The BMC Participation Statement say that:
The BMC recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

Rubicon: Bolt observations

	NB = needs new bolts SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving. * = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.
	Route	Bolt condition	Grade
1	Alimoany	?	7b
2	Honeymoon Blues	T	E5 6b
3	Salar Maybe an extra lower off bolt	ok	8a+
15	Caviar	ok	8a+
16	Eugenics (OPEN PROJECT)	x	?
17	Let the Tribe Increase	NB	7c+
18	The Dangerous Brothers	NB	8a
19	Too Old to be Bold Galvanised hangers on stainless bolts. Needs Replacing.	NB	7c
26	Hot Fun Closing	NB	8a
37	The Sissy	New resin bolts 2008	8a
38	Zeke the Freak	New resin bolts 2008	8b
39	The Bastard	NB	8c
40	Truely Awesome	?	7a+
41	Rubicon	OK	7a+
42	Zeitgeist	?	7b
43	No Jug, No Thug		E5 6b
44	The Bomb is Coming	?	7a

WCJ Cornice: Bolt Conditions

	NB = needs new bolts SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving. * = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.
	Route	Bolt condition	Grade
8	Incapacity benefit (NEW ROUTE)	OK	7b
9	The Dole 1989	NB	7b+
10	Yorkshire 8b Will have a mix of stainless etc.	NB	8a+
11	Ape Index Never properly bolted.	NB	8b+
12	The Weakling New bolts around the crux only	SB	7c+
13	Brachiation Dance May need some new bolts and a better lower off (under lip)	SB	7b+
14	The Free Monster Needs better lower off (under lip)	OK	8a
15	The Auctioneer	OK	8a+
16	Rumble in the Jungle	OK	8a+
17	Monsterosity	OK	8b
18	Albatrossity Dodgy bolts on lower half have been replaced	SB	8a+
19 19a	Superfly Simons new route	NB SB	8a+ 8b
20	Eclipsed	NB	8b
21	The Disillusioned Glue Machine rebolted a few years ago with the wrong bolts and hangers	NB	8a
22	Empire Burlesque Re bolted, however bolts may need to be repositioned	SB	7c+
23	The Nasty Man	Ok	7c
24	Goldcrest	OK	7c+
25	Sirius	NB	7c+
26	Atilla the Hun	NB	7a+

Cheedale Cornice: Bolt observations

NB = needs new bolts SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving. * = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.
Route		Bolt condition	Grade
1	Ophelias Lobelia	NB*	7b+
2	Forehead Trombone	NB*	7b+
3	Sharp Practice	OK?	8a+
4	Masculine Power Trip	NB	8a+
5	Mescaline Power Trip	NB	8a
6	Wright-On	NB*	7c+
7	Wright to Left	NB*	7c
8	Taylor Made	NB*	7c
9	Feminine Ego Trip	NB*	8a
10	Nemesis	NB	8a+
11	Monumental Armblaster	NB	8a+
12	Malcolm X Needs new bolts, however grade and conditions do not put it high on the list.	NB*	8b+
13	Last Eggs Before the M1 No point rebolting this as sharpholds has a project into monumental that will supersede this route.	NB	7c+
14	The Jug Jockey	NB	7c+
15	Dreadnaught Needs new bolts, however grade and conditions do not put it high on the list.	NB*	8c
16	The Roof Warrior	NB	8a
17	Cry of Despair (See slagging off rant of cordless madness)	NB	7c
18	Rapid City	NB	8a
19	That was the River	NB	7b+
20	Streamline	NB	7c+
21	This is the Sea Bolts at start and finish need replacing.	SB	7c+
22	Old Man River	NB	7b
23	The Naive and Sentimental Lover Could not see the bolts under the slime	?	7b
24	Up the River Without a Paddle Could not see the bolts under the slime.	?	6c+
25	Snails of the Riverbank	OK	7b
26	The Spiders from Mars The next four routes were covered in so much slime that it was so hard to ascertain the condition of the bolts! (Slime or rust?)	?	6b
27	The Monday Club	?	7a+
28	Trampled Underfoot	?	7a
29	Gardener's Question Time	?	7a
30	Rue Morgue	T	E4 6a
31	After the Goldfish	OK	7a+
32	Crowd Control	OK	7c
33	Une Crime Passionel	T	E4 6a
34	A Basic Power Problem	T	E6 6b
35	Fey	T	E4 5c
36	War Memorial	OK	6c
37	Succubus	OK	7b
38	Shazam	T	E4 6a
39	Martial Music	OK	7a
40 40a	Clarion Call Old bolts need removing and lower off improved with one new bolt Poppy Fields Bolts need tightening up	OK OK	7a 7b+
41	Armistice Day This route has some ok bolts however; they are in the wrong place.	NB	7a
42	Whose Line is it Anyway?	NB	7a+
43	Big Store	T	E5 6b
44	Egyptian Bizarre	T	E5 6b
45	Big Zipper Is it worth rebolting?	NB*	7a+
46	Beelzebub Is it worth rebolting?	NB*	7b+
47	Bored of the Lies	NB	7b+
48	Ouijaboard One or two bolts may need replacing	SB	7c+
49	Four Door Dostoyevsky	NB	8a+
50	Powerplant	NB	8a
51	Devonshire Arms	NB	8a+
52	K3	OK	8a+
53 53a	42 32 (New route)	NB OK	8b 8b+
54 54a	R'n'P Some old bolts need removing and first bolt replacing. Snatch (New Route)	Rebolted OK	8a+ 8b
55	Love Amongst the Butterflies Lower off may need tidying up.	OK	8b
56 56a	Asia Shadow Player New route	OK OK	8b 8c
57	Unleashing the Wild Physique	NB	8a
58	Cosmopolitan	T ?	E6 6b
59	Cordless Madness Somebody attempted to rebolt this route in 2007. (Also cry of despair & unleashing) these new bolts should be disregarded and replaced.	NB	7b+
60	Mandy	OK	7b+
61	Flowers in the Dirt .	OK	7b
62	The Third Order	OK	7b
63	Loco	OK	7b+
64	Too Pumpy for Grumpy	NB	7a
65	Further Adventures in Greendale	OK	7b+
66	Old Man's Gambit	T	E2 5c
67	The Cornice man .	OK	7a