The Peak district has been crying out for a bolt fund for a long time now. A lot of great routes have, and continue to become dangerous propositions due to the state of the often ancient in-situ gear. Hopefully the existence and promotion of an active bolt fund and re-bolting project should help to rectify this situation. In so doing not only will we maintain the popular routes we've all enjoyed, but help to re-vitalise routes and crags of undeniable quality which have slipped into disuse due to the state of the gear.

The success of this venture depends entirely on the generosity in time and money of the climbing community. As is so often the way, many of those with one to give are sorely short of the other. Hopefully the Peak Bolt Fund can join the dots by giving the time rich but money poor the tools, equipment and technical support needed to carry out some necessary work. If you have or do enjoy sport climbing in the peak please join the effort to keep the crags in good order.


Details of Re-equipping work and News can be found below:

Friday, 19 November 2010

Summer 2010

Cheedale Cornice was fully dry for a large portion of the Summer (a rarity as only the central sections have dried out in previous years). Thus it received a great deal of attention from locals and visitors alike:

The following routes (not all located at the Cornice) were re-equipped by Jon Clark amongst others:

  • Taylor Made
  • Monumental Armblaster
  • That Was the River
  • Old Man River
  • Who’s line is it Anyway
  • Four Door
  • Powerplant
  • Devonshire Arms
  • Cordless/Cosmopolitan
  • The Ogre
  • De Vine (and another route at Rhubarb Buttress)
  • Lockless Monster
  • A Bigger Splash (the route)
  • Mecca Extension
  • Jehovah Kill

...and enjoyed by many.

In addition, the people involved in this work also spent a great deal of time and effort cleaning up a host of other routes which, though in no state to climb, didn’t need re-bolting.

Many thanks for their efforts and for all of the donations that made this work possible.

Monday, 30 June 2008

Rubicon

Dangerous Brother's:
Re-equipped with 12mm stainless glue-ins. A new lower off was also added instead of the old twin pegs. The old bolts (allen key) still need removing.

Hot fun Closing:
Wire replaced with a 12mm glue in, as was the peg (bolt placed above the break). The first bolt was removed and the hole filled. Currently it has not been replaced as it appeared to be superfluous.

Monday, 23 June 2008

Current Condition of Fixed Gear

Kristian Clemmow has produced the following lists:

Cheedale Cornice
WCJ Cornice
Rubicon

which indicate which bolts require re-bolting/cleaning etc.

Please DO NOT rely on the condition listed being accurate, observation was made entirely from the ground.

The BMC Participation Statement say that:
The BMC recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

Rubicon: Bolt observations


NB = needs new bolts

SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving.

* = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.




Route

Bolt condition

Grade

1

Alimoany

?

7b

2

Honeymoon Blues

T

E5 6b

3

Salar Maybe an extra lower off bolt

ok

8a+

15

Caviar

ok

8a+

16

Eugenics (OPEN PROJECT)

x

?

17

Let the Tribe Increase

NB

7c+

18

The Dangerous Brothers

NB

8a

19

Too Old to be Bold Galvanised hangers on stainless bolts. Needs Replacing.

NB

7c

26

Hot Fun Closing

NB

8a

37

The Sissy

New resin bolts 2008

8a

38

Zeke the Freak

New resin bolts 2008

8b

39

The Bastard

NB

8c

40

Truely Awesome

?

7a+

41

Rubicon

OK

7a+

42

Zeitgeist

?

7b

43

No Jug, No Thug


E5 6b

44

The Bomb is Coming

?

7a

WCJ Cornice: Bolt Conditions


NB = needs new bolts

SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving.

* = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.




Route

Bolt condition

Grade

8

Incapacity benefit (NEW ROUTE)


OK

7b

9

The Dole 1989

NB

7b+

10

Yorkshire 8b Will have a mix of stainless etc.

NB

8a+

11

Ape Index Never properly bolted.

NB

8b+

12

The Weakling New bolts around the crux only

SB

7c+

13

Brachiation Dance May need some new bolts and a better lower off (under lip)

SB

7b+

14

The Free Monster Needs better lower off (under lip)

OK

8a

15

The Auctioneer

OK

8a+

16

Rumble in the Jungle

OK

8a+

17

Monsterosity

OK

8b

18

Albatrossity Dodgy bolts on lower half have been replaced

SB

8a+

19

19a

Superfly

Simons new route

NB

SB

8a+

8b

20

Eclipsed

NB

8b

21

The Disillusioned Glue Machine rebolted a few years ago with the wrong bolts and hangers

NB

8a

22

Empire Burlesque Re bolted, however bolts may need to be repositioned

SB

7c+

23

The Nasty Man

Ok

7c

24

Goldcrest

OK

7c+

25

Sirius

NB

7c+

26

Atilla the Hun

NB

7a+

Cheedale Cornice: Bolt observations

NB = needs new bolts

SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving.

* = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.



Route

Bolt condition

Grade

1

Ophelias Lobelia

NB*

7b+

2

Forehead Trombone

NB*

7b+

3

Sharp Practice

OK?

8a+

4

Masculine Power Trip

NB

8a+

5

Mescaline Power Trip

NB

8a

6

Wright-On

NB*

7c+

7

Wright to Left

NB*

7c

8

Taylor Made

NB*

7c

9

Feminine Ego Trip

NB*

8a

10

Nemesis


NB

8a+

11

Monumental Armblaster

NB

8a+

12

Malcolm X
Needs new bolts, however grade and conditions do not put it high on the list.

NB*

8b+

13

Last Eggs Before the M1
No point rebolting this as sharpholds has a project into monumental that will supersede this route.

NB

7c+

14

The Jug Jockey

NB

7c+

15

Dreadnaught
Needs new bolts, however grade and conditions do not put it high on the list.

NB*

8c

16

The Roof Warrior

NB

8a

17

Cry of Despair

(See slagging off rant of cordless madness)

NB

7c

18

Rapid City

NB

8a

19

That was the River


NB

7b+

20

Streamline


NB

7c+

21

This is the Sea
Bolts at start and finish need replacing.

SB

7c+

22

Old Man River

NB

7b

23

The Naive and Sentimental Lover
Could not see the bolts under the slime

?

7b

24

Up the River Without a Paddle
Could not see the bolts under the slime.

?

6c+

25

Snails of the Riverbank

OK

7b

26

The Spiders from Mars

The next four routes were covered in so much slime that it was so hard to ascertain the condition of the bolts! (Slime or rust?)

?

6b

27

The Monday Club

?

7a+

28

Trampled Underfoot

?

7a

29

Gardener's Question Time


?

7a

30

Rue Morgue

T

E4 6a

31

After the Goldfish

OK

7a+

32

Crowd Control

OK

7c

33

Une Crime Passionel


T

E4 6a

34

A Basic Power Problem

T

E6 6b

35

Fey


T

E4 5c

36

War Memorial


OK

6c

37

Succubus


OK

7b

38

Shazam

T

E4 6a

39

Martial Music


OK

7a

40

40a

Clarion Call

Old bolts need removing and lower off improved with one new bolt


Poppy Fields Bolts need tightening up

OK

OK

7a

7b+

41

Armistice Day
This route has some ok bolts however; they are in the wrong place.

NB

7a

42

Whose Line is it Anyway?


NB

7a+

43

Big Store

T

E5 6b

44

Egyptian Bizarre

T

E5 6b

45

Big Zipper

Is it worth rebolting?

NB*

7a+

46

Beelzebub

Is it worth rebolting?


NB*

7b+

47

Bored of the Lies

NB

7b+

48

Ouijaboard

One or two bolts may need replacing

SB

7c+

49

Four Door Dostoyevsky

NB

8a+

50

Powerplant

NB

8a

51

Devonshire Arms

NB

8a+

52

K3

OK

8a+

53

53a

42

32 (New route)

NB

OK

8b

8b+

54

54a

R'n'P

Some old bolts need removing and first bolt replacing.

Snatch (New Route)

Rebolted

OK

8a+

8b

55

Love Amongst the Butterflies

Lower off may need tidying up.


OK

8b

56

56a

Asia Shadow Player

New route

OK

OK

8b

8c

57

Unleashing the Wild Physique

NB

8a

58

Cosmopolitan


T ?

E6 6b

59

Cordless Madness
Somebody attempted to rebolt this route in 2007. (Also cry of despair & unleashing) these new bolts should be disregarded and replaced.

NB

7b+

60

Mandy

OK

7b+

61

Flowers in the Dirt
.

OK

7b

62

The Third Order

OK

7b

63

Loco

OK

7b+

64

Too Pumpy for Grumpy

NB

7a

65

Further Adventures in Greendale

OK

7b+

66

Old Man's Gambit

T

E2 5c

67

The Cornice man
.

OK

7a