The Peak district has been crying out for a bolt fund for a long time now. A lot of great routes have, and continue to become dangerous propositions due to the state of the often ancient in-situ gear. Hopefully the existence and promotion of an active bolt fund and re-bolting project should help to rectify this situation. In so doing not only will we maintain the popular routes we've all enjoyed, but help to re-vitalise routes and crags of undeniable quality which have slipped into disuse due to the state of the gear.

The success of this venture depends entirely on the generosity in time and money of the climbing community. As is so often the way, many of those with one to give are sorely short of the other. Hopefully the Peak Bolt Fund can join the dots by giving the time rich but money poor the tools, equipment and technical support needed to carry out some necessary work. If you have or do enjoy sport climbing in the peak please join the effort to keep the crags in good order.


Details of Re-equipping work and News can be found below:

Friday, 2 December 2016

Peak Bolt Fund 2016 Round Up


The Peak Bolt Fund has been re-energized this year, with some keen new people getting involved with the help of a couple of BMC bolting workshops. We’ve got another one planned for March next year – message Dan Middleton if interested in attending.

Evidence of early metal working in the Peak District

At Stoney, the first half of Little Plum has been rebolted with glue-ins. The popular Tin Of at Raven Tor has 3 new glue-in bolts and a new, higher lower off. All my Pegs in One Basket, Tideswell Dale has been fully bolted with glue-ins. Rupert Davies quickly made a re-ascent of it and commented "painful finger jamming" no doubt they'll being queuing for this next summer. To the left of All my Pegs is a new route called Pretty Peggy-o which is also 8a.

Over at Rubicon, Jezebel, White Bait and Miller’s Tail have had discrete new lower offs added. Too Old to be Bold and Tribes have been fully rebolted. At Lammergeyer many new bolts have appeared those funded by the PBF include, Final Destination and the LH start, The Fall, and Vindicator. Further down the river Ape Index has had the PBF treatment and is sporting shinny new bolts. That’s something to crow about.

Down by the Millersdale viaduct Mark Rankine rejuvenated an old crag with two new routes Under The Bridge 7a, Trollhammaren 7b and rebolted Paul Mitchell's route Mister Blister; originally E6 6c on pegs now 7c+ on PBF glue-ins. More information here [Millersdale Viaduct Crag][7a-7c+]

Mark on Mister Blister 7C+
 
Now for the queen of crags, the Cheedale Cornice. Nemesis has a new bolt and a bolt added to the lower off. Roof Warrior has new third bolt and a new lower off. Cry of Despair has been rebolted with glue-ins, which is good as it sees a lot of air-time. Bored of the Lies/Big Zipper have a new bolt on the top bulge. No reason to be Too Pumpy for Grumpy as it has been rebolted. The popular warm-up Further Adventures In Greendale has a new bolt at the top.

You won’t get Stung at Nettle Buttress because the bolts have been replaced. Orange Sunshine and Why Me at Two Tier have new glue-ins. A Man Called Horse, Moving Buttress has been rebolted with glue-ins. Someone should let Si Wilson know.

The corroded bolts from Stung on Nettle buttress. Looks like a late finish there lads, well done!


Fishing Without A License (who would do such a thing?) at Embankment is now rebolted with glue-ins. Finally, with possibly the best route name in the Peak, Let’s Get Fossilized at Beginners Wall has also been rebolted. Sloe Gin on plum buttress is also sporting some new bolts.

Check out the peckers holding in the lower-off on Why Me/Orange Sunshine...[gulp]

There is plenty more that needs doing, so if you’d like to contribute financially please donate here: http://thepeakboltfund.blogspot.co.uk
 
We can’t finish without mentioning the heroic and slightly scary amount of work that has been done over the last decade or so by Kristian Clemmow. If you’re a climber on peak limestone you’ll have undoubtedly benefited from his rebolting work, so if you see him at the crag next year, offer to buy him a pint at the Red Lion afterwards, he deserves it.

Friday, 19 November 2010

Summer 2010

Cheedale Cornice was fully dry for a large portion of the Summer (a rarity as only the central sections have dried out in previous years). Thus it received a great deal of attention from locals and visitors alike:

The following routes (not all located at the Cornice) were re-equipped by Jon Clark amongst others:

  • Taylor Made
  • Monumental Armblaster
  • That Was the River
  • Old Man River
  • Who’s line is it Anyway
  • Four Door
  • Powerplant
  • Devonshire Arms
  • Cordless/Cosmopolitan
  • The Ogre
  • De Vine (and another route at Rhubarb Buttress)
  • Lockless Monster
  • A Bigger Splash (the route)
  • Mecca Extension
  • Jehovah Kill

...and enjoyed by many.

In addition, the people involved in this work also spent a great deal of time and effort cleaning up a host of other routes which, though in no state to climb, didn’t need re-bolting.

Many thanks for their efforts and for all of the donations that made this work possible.

Monday, 30 June 2008

Rubicon

Dangerous Brother's:
Re-equipped with 12mm stainless glue-ins. A new lower off was also added instead of the old twin pegs. The old bolts (allen key) still need removing.

Hot fun Closing:
Wire replaced with a 12mm glue in, as was the peg (bolt placed above the break). The first bolt was removed and the hole filled. Currently it has not been replaced as it appeared to be superfluous.

Monday, 23 June 2008

Current Condition of Fixed Gear

Kristian Clemmow has produced the following lists:

Cheedale Cornice
WCJ Cornice
Rubicon

which indicate which bolts require re-bolting/cleaning etc.

Please DO NOT rely on the condition listed being accurate, observation was made entirely from the ground.

The BMC Participation Statement say that:
The BMC recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

Rubicon: Bolt observations


NB = needs new bolts

SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving.

* = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.




Route

Bolt condition

Grade

1

Alimoany

?

7b

2

Honeymoon Blues

T

E5 6b

3

Salar Maybe an extra lower off bolt

ok

8a+

15

Caviar

ok

8a+

16

Eugenics (OPEN PROJECT)

x

?

17

Let the Tribe Increase

NB

7c+

18

The Dangerous Brothers

NB

8a

19

Too Old to be Bold Galvanised hangers on stainless bolts. Needs Replacing.

NB

7c

26

Hot Fun Closing

NB

8a

37

The Sissy

New resin bolts 2008

8a

38

Zeke the Freak

New resin bolts 2008

8b

39

The Bastard

NB

8c

40

Truely Awesome

?

7a+

41

Rubicon

OK

7a+

42

Zeitgeist

?

7b

43

No Jug, No Thug


E5 6b

44

The Bomb is Coming

?

7a

WCJ Cornice: Bolt Conditions


NB = needs new bolts

SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving.

* = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.




Route

Bolt condition

Grade

8

Incapacity benefit (NEW ROUTE)


OK

7b

9

The Dole 1989

NB

7b+

10

Yorkshire 8b Will have a mix of stainless etc.

NB

8a+

11

Ape Index Never properly bolted.

NB

8b+

12

The Weakling New bolts around the crux only

SB

7c+

13

Brachiation Dance May need some new bolts and a better lower off (under lip)

SB

7b+

14

The Free Monster Needs better lower off (under lip)

OK

8a

15

The Auctioneer

OK

8a+

16

Rumble in the Jungle

OK

8a+

17

Monsterosity

OK

8b

18

Albatrossity Dodgy bolts on lower half have been replaced

SB

8a+

19

19a

Superfly

Simons new route

NB

SB

8a+

8b

20

Eclipsed

NB

8b

21

The Disillusioned Glue Machine rebolted a few years ago with the wrong bolts and hangers

NB

8a

22

Empire Burlesque Re bolted, however bolts may need to be repositioned

SB

7c+

23

The Nasty Man

Ok

7c

24

Goldcrest

OK

7c+

25

Sirius

NB

7c+

26

Atilla the Hun

NB

7a+