The Peak district has been crying out for a bolt fund for a long time now. A lot of great routes have, and continue to become dangerous propositions due to the state of the often ancient in-situ gear. Hopefully the existence and promotion of an active bolt fund and re-bolting project should help to rectify this situation. In so doing not only will we maintain the popular routes we've all enjoyed, but help to re-vitalise routes and crags of undeniable quality which have slipped into disuse due to the state of the gear.

The success of this venture depends entirely on the generosity in time and money of the climbing community. As is so often the way, many of those with one to give are sorely short of the other. Hopefully the Peak Bolt Fund can join the dots by giving the time rich but money poor the tools, equipment and technical support needed to carry out some necessary work. If you have or do enjoy sport climbing in the peak please join the effort to keep the crags in good order.


Details of Re-equipping work and News can be found below:

Wednesday, 15 November 2017

2017 Round-up

The Peak Bolt Fund has seen a good year in terms of bolting and fundraising. We’ve had some new faces join the old guard and all are doing their best to get out there and update some of the lower quality bolts around The Peak. This means that many popular routes now have new bolts and improved lower-offs, often sporting maillon-ring combinations to reduce wear on the bolts. A number of neglected routes have also been brought back to life with new bolts and a good clean.

This work is important as there’s a real mixed bag of bolts in The Peak. Many are made with substandard materials which have rusted over the years. Homemade bolts have also been used in the past. Lots are as old as the routes they protect:
Some old metalwork extracted over the years by Kristian Clemlow. Steve the pro's Homemade hanger and chunky Rawl bolt from SHIBB at the Tor. Cadburys Flake from Dreadnought - Cornice. Mammut hanger from Hubble. Camp rings often found on Andy Pollitt routes. Aid thing high on Mecca and a Troll Lego. Photo: Kristian Clemlow
The Peak Bolt Fund exists to re-bolt existing routes. We do not retro-bolt trad routes or fund the bolting of new routes. However we do have a stock of bolts that can be purchased at cost for anyone wanting to bolt a new route. We use single piece 8mm stainless steel bolts glued-in with epoxy resin. Placed well and used properly these bolts should last for a long time.
New bolts Photo: Kristian Clemlow

To give an idea of the cost of re-bolting a route it is roughly £3 for a bolt, £4 for a belay bolt and £15 for a tube of glue which easily adds up to over £50 even for a short Peak route. Added to this is the hundreds of pounds worth of kit - drill, drill bits, glue-gun, brushes, angle-grinder, batteries, etc, etc - that needs purchasing, maintaining and replacing over time.

The Bolt Fund has taken a more active approach to fundraising this year. Spearheaded by Seb Grieve cajoling people at the crag and some active posting on our facebook page we’ve managed to raise over £1000. We’ve used this money to purchase £900 of new bolts, glue, a replacement battery for the angle-grinder and various bits that broke over the year (mainly drill bits). Without the money donated this year the fund would really be struggling, so thanks to everyone who has donated; you know who you are. We still need more donations to continue the re-bolting so please help if you can - Google The Peak Bolt Fund or empty your pockets next time you see Seb at the crag.

Moving on to some of the work that’s been done... 

Down Chee Dale some of the more popular routes at the Cornice have been re-equipped; 42, Love Amongst the Butterflies (done by the original bolter, Seb Grieve, who reportedly had to ab in as a high river made the normal approaches impossible for all but ducks!), Beelzebub, Armistice Day (where the awkward bolts have been repositioned) and Egyptian Bizarre, which has been brought out of retirement and has already become a neo-classic. 

If the queues at the Cornice are getting you down, why not head round the corner to Rhubarb Buttress which plays host to a trio of refreshed routes; Turbo Charged Monster Mouse, The Fat Ginger Cat and - the standout classic - Day of the Long Knives. A real #hiddengem!
Matt Ferrier on the glorious headwall of Day of the Long Knives Photo: Mark Rankine

Up river at Embankment, Beef it, Breamtime and Fishing without a License have new bolts and Beef It even has a new finish - Superbeef 7b+ (Jamie Edwards 2017). At the Nook there are new bolts on A Bit of Nookie and The Storm.

Crossing over the river and going further upstream one old and one new route; A Man Called Horse 7b+ and My Lovely Horse 7c (Mark Rankine 2017) at Moving Buttress have also received the treatment.
Jamie Edwards climbing Turbo Charged Monster Mouse Photo: Mark Rankine
Down Water-cum-Jolly, Moat Buttress continues to develop into a very good crag with an impressive list of routes being overhauled this year; Nude Moatorcycle Girl, Out of the Shadows, Drawbridge down, Over the Moorhens, Two Sheep to Leicester, Agent Provocateur and Lady of the Lake. The latter was originally bolted after the lake drained when the dam burst back in 1988. It now starts above the water and, for those without access to a rubber dingy, the start can be reached by a line of aid bolts. The aid line has been freed by Chris Plant creating a route at 7a+ called Watery Bint or Watery Tart depending on how accurate you want your Monty Python references to be.

On Central Buttress Belladona has been re-bolted, seems to have lost a hold, and now climbs at around 7b+.

Finally, Little Plum at Stoney - once the hardest route in The Peak - has new bolts and lower-offs.

The BMC has also done a great job crowdfunding and organising rebolting at Horseshoe Quarry. This was a task too daunting for anyone at the PBF and would have taken us years to complete, during which time the rest of The Peak would have been neglected.

Re-bolting routes is a tiring and thankless task, so I’d like to take this opportunity to say a BIG thanks for all the bolting done by the volunteers this year. In addition, I want to thank Dan Middleton for support from the BMC and for running bolting workshops. 

For more information, email thepeakboltfund@gmail.com, find us on facebook.

Friday, 2 December 2016

Peak Bolt Fund 2016 Round Up


The Peak Bolt Fund has been re-energized this year, with some keen new people getting involved with the help of a couple of BMC bolting workshops. We’ve got another one planned for March next year – message Dan Middleton if interested in attending.

Evidence of early metal working in the Peak District

At Stoney, the first half of Little Plum has been rebolted with glue-ins. The popular Tin Of at Raven Tor has 3 new glue-in bolts and a new, higher lower off. All my Pegs in One Basket, Tideswell Dale has been fully bolted with glue-ins. Rupert Davies quickly made a re-ascent of it and commented "painful finger jamming" no doubt they'll being queuing for this next summer. To the left of All my Pegs is a new route called Pretty Peggy-o which is also 8a.

Over at Rubicon, Jezebel, White Bait and Miller’s Tail have had discrete new lower offs added. Too Old to be Bold and Tribes have been fully rebolted. At Lammergeyer many new bolts have appeared those funded by the PBF include, Final Destination and the LH start, The Fall, and Vindicator. Further down the river Ape Index has had the PBF treatment and is sporting shinny new bolts. That’s something to crow about.

Down by the Millersdale viaduct Mark Rankine rejuvenated an old crag with two new routes Under The Bridge 7a, Trollhammaren 7b and rebolted Paul Mitchell's route Mister Blister; originally E6 6c on pegs now 7c+ on PBF glue-ins. More information here [Millersdale Viaduct Crag][7a-7c+]

Mark on Mister Blister 7C+
 
Now for the queen of crags, the Cheedale Cornice. Nemesis has a new bolt and a bolt added to the lower off. Roof Warrior has new third bolt and a new lower off. Cry of Despair has been rebolted with glue-ins, which is good as it sees a lot of air-time. Bored of the Lies/Big Zipper have a new bolt on the top bulge. No reason to be Too Pumpy for Grumpy as it has been rebolted. The popular warm-up Further Adventures In Greendale has a new bolt at the top.

You won’t get Stung at Nettle Buttress because the bolts have been replaced. Orange Sunshine and Why Me at Two Tier have new glue-ins. A Man Called Horse, Moving Buttress has been rebolted with glue-ins. Someone should let Si Wilson know.

The corroded bolts from Stung on Nettle buttress. Looks like a late finish there lads, well done!


Fishing Without A License (who would do such a thing?) at Embankment is now rebolted with glue-ins. Finally, with possibly the best route name in the Peak, Let’s Get Fossilized at Beginners Wall has also been rebolted. Sloe Gin on plum buttress is also sporting some new bolts.

Check out the peckers holding in the lower-off on Why Me/Orange Sunshine...[gulp]

There is plenty more that needs doing, so if you’d like to contribute financially please donate here: http://thepeakboltfund.blogspot.co.uk
 
We can’t finish without mentioning the heroic and slightly scary amount of work that has been done over the last decade or so by Kristian Clemmow. If you’re a climber on peak limestone you’ll have undoubtedly benefited from his rebolting work, so if you see him at the crag next year, offer to buy him a pint at the Red Lion afterwards, he deserves it.

Friday, 19 November 2010

Summer 2010

Cheedale Cornice was fully dry for a large portion of the Summer (a rarity as only the central sections have dried out in previous years). Thus it received a great deal of attention from locals and visitors alike:

The following routes (not all located at the Cornice) were re-equipped by Jon Clark amongst others:

  • Taylor Made
  • Monumental Armblaster
  • That Was the River
  • Old Man River
  • Who’s line is it Anyway
  • Four Door
  • Powerplant
  • Devonshire Arms
  • Cordless/Cosmopolitan
  • The Ogre
  • De Vine (and another route at Rhubarb Buttress)
  • Lockless Monster
  • A Bigger Splash (the route)
  • Mecca Extension
  • Jehovah Kill

...and enjoyed by many.

In addition, the people involved in this work also spent a great deal of time and effort cleaning up a host of other routes which, though in no state to climb, didn’t need re-bolting.

Many thanks for their efforts and for all of the donations that made this work possible.

Monday, 30 June 2008

Rubicon

Dangerous Brother's:
Re-equipped with 12mm stainless glue-ins. A new lower off was also added instead of the old twin pegs. The old bolts (allen key) still need removing.

Hot fun Closing:
Wire replaced with a 12mm glue in, as was the peg (bolt placed above the break). The first bolt was removed and the hole filled. Currently it has not been replaced as it appeared to be superfluous.

Monday, 23 June 2008

Current Condition of Fixed Gear

Kristian Clemmow has produced the following lists:

Cheedale Cornice
WCJ Cornice
Rubicon

which indicate which bolts require re-bolting/cleaning etc.

Please DO NOT rely on the condition listed being accurate, observation was made entirely from the ground.

The BMC Participation Statement say that:
The BMC recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

Rubicon: Bolt observations


NB = needs new bolts

SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving.

* = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.




Route

Bolt condition

Grade

1

Alimoany

?

7b

2

Honeymoon Blues

T

E5 6b

3

Salar Maybe an extra lower off bolt

ok

8a+

15

Caviar

ok

8a+

16

Eugenics (OPEN PROJECT)

x

?

17

Let the Tribe Increase

NB

7c+

18

The Dangerous Brothers

NB

8a

19

Too Old to be Bold Galvanised hangers on stainless bolts. Needs Replacing.

NB

7c

26

Hot Fun Closing

NB

8a

37

The Sissy

New resin bolts 2008

8a

38

Zeke the Freak

New resin bolts 2008

8b

39

The Bastard

NB

8c

40

Truely Awesome

?

7a+

41

Rubicon

OK

7a+

42

Zeitgeist

?

7b

43

No Jug, No Thug


E5 6b

44

The Bomb is Coming

?

7a

WCJ Cornice: Bolt Conditions


NB = needs new bolts

SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving.

* = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.




Route

Bolt condition

Grade

8

Incapacity benefit (NEW ROUTE)


OK

7b

9

The Dole 1989

NB

7b+

10

Yorkshire 8b Will have a mix of stainless etc.

NB

8a+

11

Ape Index Never properly bolted.

NB

8b+

12

The Weakling New bolts around the crux only

SB

7c+

13

Brachiation Dance May need some new bolts and a better lower off (under lip)

SB

7b+

14

The Free Monster Needs better lower off (under lip)

OK

8a

15

The Auctioneer

OK

8a+

16

Rumble in the Jungle

OK

8a+

17

Monsterosity

OK

8b

18

Albatrossity Dodgy bolts on lower half have been replaced

SB

8a+

19

19a

Superfly

Simons new route

NB

SB

8a+

8b

20

Eclipsed

NB

8b

21

The Disillusioned Glue Machine rebolted a few years ago with the wrong bolts and hangers

NB

8a

22

Empire Burlesque Re bolted, however bolts may need to be repositioned

SB

7c+

23

The Nasty Man

Ok

7c

24

Goldcrest

OK

7c+

25

Sirius

NB

7c+

26

Atilla the Hun

NB

7a+