This work is important as there’s a real mixed bag of bolts in The Peak. Many are made with substandard materials which have rusted over the years. Homemade bolts have also been used in the past. Lots are as old as the routes they protect:
|Some old metalwork extracted over the years by Kristian Clemlow. Steve the pro's Homemade hanger and chunky Rawl bolt from SHIBB at the Tor. Cadburys Flake from Dreadnought - Cornice. Mammut hanger from Hubble. Camp rings often found on Andy Pollitt routes. Aid thing high on Mecca and a Troll Lego. Photo: Kristian Clemlow|
|New bolts Photo: Kristian Clemlow|
The Bolt Fund has taken a more active approach to fundraising this year. Spearheaded by Seb Grieve cajoling people at the crag and some active posting on our facebook page we’ve managed to raise over £1000. We’ve used this money to purchase £900 of new bolts, glue, a replacement battery for the angle-grinder and various bits that broke over the year (mainly drill bits). Without the money donated this year the fund would really be struggling, so thanks to everyone who has donated; you know who you are. We still need more donations to continue the re-bolting so please help if you can - Google The Peak Bolt Fund or empty your pockets next time you see Seb at the crag.
Moving on to some of the work that’s been done...
Down Chee Dale some of the more popular routes at the Cornice have been re-equipped; 42, Love Amongst the Butterflies (done by the original bolter, Seb Grieve, who reportedly had to ab in as a high river made the normal approaches impossible for all but ducks!), Beelzebub, Armistice Day (where the awkward bolts have been repositioned) and Egyptian Bizarre, which has been brought out of retirement and has already become a neo-classic.
If the queues at the Cornice are getting you down, why not head round the corner to Rhubarb Buttress which plays host to a trio of refreshed routes; Turbo Charged Monster Mouse, The Fat Ginger Cat and - the standout classic - Day of the Long Knives. A real #hiddengem!
|Matt Ferrier on the glorious headwall of Day of the Long Knives Photo: Mark Rankine|
Crossing over the river and going further upstream one old and one new route; A Man Called Horse 7b+ and My Lovely Horse 7c (Mark Rankine 2017) at Moving Buttress have also received the treatment.
|Jamie Edwards climbing Turbo Charged Monster Mouse Photo: Mark Rankine|
On Central Buttress Belladona has been re-bolted, seems to have lost a hold, and now climbs at around 7b+.
Finally, Little Plum at Stoney - once the hardest route in The Peak - has new bolts and lower-offs.
The BMC has also done a great job crowdfunding and organising rebolting at Horseshoe Quarry. This was a task too daunting for anyone at the PBF and would have taken us years to complete, during which time the rest of The Peak would have been neglected.
Re-bolting routes is a tiring and thankless task, so I’d like to take this opportunity to say a BIG thanks for all the bolting done by the volunteers this year. In addition, I want to thank Dan Middleton for support from the BMC and for running bolting workshops.
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