Rubicon

Dangerous Brother's:
Re-equipped with 12mm stainless glue-ins. A new lower off was also added instead of the old twin pegs. The old bolts (allen key) still need removing.

Hot fun Closing:
Wire replaced with a 12mm glue in, as was the peg (bolt placed above the break). The first bolt was removed and the hole filled. Currently it has not been replaced as it appeared to be superfluous.

Current Condition of Fixed Gear

Kristian Clemmow has produced the following lists:

Cheedale Cornice
WCJ Cornice
Rubicon

which indicate which bolts require re-bolting/cleaning etc.

Please DO NOT rely on the condition listed being accurate, observation was made entirely from the ground.

The BMC Participation Statement say that:
The BMC recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

Rubicon: Bolt observations

	NB = needs new bolts SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving. * = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.
	Route	Bolt condition	Grade
1	Alimoany	?	7b
2	Honeymoon Blues	T	E5 6b
3	Salar Maybe an extra lower off bolt	ok	8a+
15	Caviar	ok	8a+
16	Eugenics (OPEN PROJECT)	x	?
17	Let the Tribe Increase	NB	7c+
18	The Dangerous Brothers	NB	8a
19	Too Old to be Bold Galvanised hangers on stainless bolts. Needs Replacing.	NB	7c
26	Hot Fun Closing	NB	8a
37	The Sissy	New resin bolts 2008	8a
38	Zeke the Freak	New resin bolts 2008	8b
39	The Bastard	NB	8c
40	Truely Awesome	?	7a+
41	Rubicon	OK	7a+
42	Zeitgeist	?	7b
43	No Jug, No Thug		E5 6b
44	The Bomb is Coming	?	7a

WCJ Cornice: Bolt Conditions

	NB = needs new bolts SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving. * = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.
	Route	Bolt condition	Grade
8	Incapacity benefit (NEW ROUTE)	OK	7b
9	The Dole 1989	NB	7b+
10	Yorkshire 8b Will have a mix of stainless etc.	NB	8a+
11	Ape Index Never properly bolted.	NB	8b+
12	The Weakling New bolts around the crux only	SB	7c+
13	Brachiation Dance May need some new bolts and a better lower off (under lip)	SB	7b+
14	The Free Monster Needs better lower off (under lip)	OK	8a
15	The Auctioneer	OK	8a+
16	Rumble in the Jungle	OK	8a+
17	Monsterosity	OK	8b
18	Albatrossity Dodgy bolts on lower half have been replaced	SB	8a+
19 19a	Superfly Simons new route	NB SB	8a+ 8b
20	Eclipsed	NB	8b
21	The Disillusioned Glue Machine rebolted a few years ago with the wrong bolts and hangers	NB	8a
22	Empire Burlesque Re bolted, however bolts may need to be repositioned	SB	7c+
23	The Nasty Man	Ok	7c
24	Goldcrest	OK	7c+
25	Sirius	NB	7c+
26	Atilla the Hun	NB	7a+

Cheedale Cornice: Bolt observations

NB = needs new bolts SB = some bolts need replacing or lower offs improving. * = Routes that are mostly wet or unpopular and may not be worth rebolting.
Route		Bolt condition	Grade
1	Ophelias Lobelia	NB*	7b+
2	Forehead Trombone	NB*	7b+
3	Sharp Practice	OK?	8a+
4	Masculine Power Trip	NB	8a+
5	Mescaline Power Trip	NB	8a
6	Wright-On	NB*	7c+
7	Wright to Left	NB*	7c
8	Taylor Made	NB*	7c
9	Feminine Ego Trip	NB*	8a
10	Nemesis	NB	8a+
11	Monumental Armblaster	NB	8a+
12	Malcolm X Needs new bolts, however grade and conditions do not put it high on the list.	NB*	8b+
13	Last Eggs Before the M1 No point rebolting this as sharpholds has a project into monumental that will supersede this route.	NB	7c+
14	The Jug Jockey	NB	7c+
15	Dreadnaught Needs new bolts, however grade and conditions do not put it high on the list.	NB*	8c
16	The Roof Warrior	NB	8a
17	Cry of Despair (See slagging off rant of cordless madness)	NB	7c
18	Rapid City	NB	8a
19	That was the River	NB	7b+
20	Streamline	NB	7c+
21	This is the Sea Bolts at start and finish need replacing.	SB	7c+
22	Old Man River	NB	7b
23	The Naive and Sentimental Lover Could not see the bolts under the slime	?	7b
24	Up the River Without a Paddle Could not see the bolts under the slime.	?	6c+
25	Snails of the Riverbank	OK	7b
26	The Spiders from Mars The next four routes were covered in so much slime that it was so hard to ascertain the condition of the bolts! (Slime or rust?)	?	6b
27	The Monday Club	?	7a+
28	Trampled Underfoot	?	7a
29	Gardener's Question Time	?	7a
30	Rue Morgue	T	E4 6a
31	After the Goldfish	OK	7a+
32	Crowd Control	OK	7c
33	Une Crime Passionel	T	E4 6a
34	A Basic Power Problem	T	E6 6b
35	Fey	T	E4 5c
36	War Memorial	OK	6c
37	Succubus	OK	7b
38	Shazam	T	E4 6a
39	Martial Music	OK	7a
40 40a	Clarion Call Old bolts need removing and lower off improved with one new bolt Poppy Fields Bolts need tightening up	OK OK	7a 7b+
41	Armistice Day This route has some ok bolts however; they are in the wrong place.	NB	7a
42	Whose Line is it Anyway?	NB	7a+
43	Big Store	T	E5 6b
44	Egyptian Bizarre	T	E5 6b
45	Big Zipper Is it worth rebolting?	NB*	7a+
46	Beelzebub Is it worth rebolting?	NB*	7b+
47	Bored of the Lies	NB	7b+
48	Ouijaboard One or two bolts may need replacing	SB	7c+
49	Four Door Dostoyevsky	NB	8a+
50	Powerplant	NB	8a
51	Devonshire Arms	NB	8a+
52	K3	OK	8a+
53 53a	42 32 (New route)	NB OK	8b 8b+
54 54a	R'n'P Some old bolts need removing and first bolt replacing. Snatch (New Route)	Rebolted OK	8a+ 8b
55	Love Amongst the Butterflies Lower off may need tidying up.	OK	8b
56 56a	Asia Shadow Player New route	OK OK	8b 8c
57	Unleashing the Wild Physique	NB	8a
58	Cosmopolitan	T ?	E6 6b
59	Cordless Madness Somebody attempted to rebolt this route in 2007. (Also cry of despair & unleashing) these new bolts should be disregarded and replaced.	NB	7b+
60	Mandy	OK	7b+
61	Flowers in the Dirt .	OK	7b
62	The Third Order	OK	7b
63	Loco	OK	7b+
64	Too Pumpy for Grumpy	NB	7a
65	Further Adventures in Greendale	OK	7b+
66	Old Man's Gambit	T	E2 5c
67	The Cornice man .	OK	7a

Re-equipping 08

Upper Circle - WCJ
Pragma
Eat The Rich
The Inch Test

Cheedale

Entrée

High Tor

High Torquing
Wil E. Coyote
Pump Out The Squealies
Squeezing Out Sparks
Limelight

Turkey Dip Rocks

Step On It
The Land That Time Forgot
Animal Antics

Long Tor Quarry

Future Primitive

Rubicon

Zeke The Freak

WCJ Cornice

Albattrocitty – Recently done by Neil Bentley. Not using PBF kit, but thought I’d mention the fact it’s been done.

Jon C also mention he intends to do lots more down Cheedale soon, especially at Two Tier.

Not bolt related, but as an outcome of a meeting I had with Henry Folkhard and a guy from the Derbyshire Wildlife Trust last year, a number of Sycamores have been removed at the Embankment down Cheedale. This should hopefully mean that the good routes on the right end of the crag (Barefoot In A Pool Of Sharks, Fishing Without A Licence etc) should actually come into condition this year. There was also talk of removing some Sycamores from below The Nook, a great little crag in desperate need of sorting out (tree clearance and rebolting).

General points


What gets rebolted is largely a function of who is bolting and what they are interested in. Re-bolting is hard, time consuming work and it is therefore not surprising that when people take time and effort to do it they will re-bolt the things they or their friends want to climb. It is conceivable that people might criticise the emphasis of the re-bolting as elitist. All I can say is, if you have routes you want re-bolted, learn to place bolts (contact the BMC and badger them to do a workshop), ask me for the kit and do some bolting. So far the PBF has not done a great deal because we don’t have people with the time, skills and inclination to get bolting. So much so that I have been loath to make any further pleas for donations.
What work we have done has been mostly on relatively hard (upper 7 and 8 ) routes. This is for several reasons:
• Resources, both time and money are very limited.
• The bulk of the PBF funds have come from paypal donations, via email. To a large extend I therefore know who has donated what. A large proportion have been donations from people I have met at one time or another and who are or have been dedicated sport climbers operating in the (relatively) harder grades. I think it only fair that their interests/priorities are served first.
• Gary Gibson does a great job re-equiping the peaks easier routes. In all fairness, unless people come to us with a desire to get involved and use PBF funds on easier routes, if you want to see your money go to re-equiping lower grade routes you may be better off donating to Gary’s fund. This isn't a deliberate policy, it's simply a consequence of who has offered assistance bolting. I'm keen to see routes of all grades re-bolted.
• To a large extent the peak’s best sport routes (using stars in guides as a gauge) are either already fairly recently equipped or in the harder grades. This is partly because over the years Gary and others have put lot’s of work in at crags like Horseshoe, the Embankment, Harpur Hill etc. It is also related to the point below. There is an argument for re-quipping good quality routes before lower quality routes, even if the higher quality route will be less popular due to factors such as location and grade.
• Because many of the peak’s hard steep crags are also it’s dirtiest and wettest, the gear rots faster and the routes are more hassle to re-equip. I would caution anyone to be VERY careful which bolts they trust at the Cheedale Cornice!

Please, if you have time and you know how to bolt, get in touch. The crags are drying off at the moment, now is the time to get involved.
If you don’t know how to bolt but you want to get involved, hassle the BMC for a workshop. Start off by downloading the excellent info on the BMC website here: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2411


On a personal note I sometimes feel like an idiot for starting this bolt fund and then not really delivering the good as far as bolts in crags go (although we have raised a reasonable quantity, £1,500 approx, plus successfully bidding for a number of bolts from the BMC for re-equipment of the Cornices). I especially feel bad about accepting the donation of an expensive drill from Neil Foster, which has yet to see much action. I’d like to have the time to set an example by doing more bolting myself. On the other hand I have donated at least as much time as anyone else and a fair bit of money. Really I started this thing as a result of lots of people saying it needed doing. Me and Paul have put in the effort to start this fund, it would now be nice if a few more people threw their hats in the ring. I wish I had the time to do more, but the fact is I don’t, so unless I get some more offers of help the fund is not going to get used properly.