The Peak district has been crying out for a bolt fund for a long time now. A lot of great routes have, and continue to become dangerous propositions due to the state of the often ancient in-situ gear. Hopefully the existence and promotion of an active bolt fund and re-bolting project should help to rectify this situation. In so doing not only will we maintain the popular routes we've all enjoyed, but help to re-vitalise routes and crags of undeniable quality which have slipped into disuse due to the state of the gear.

The success of this venture depends entirely on the generosity in time and money of the climbing community. As is so often the way, many of those with one to give are sorely short of the other. Hopefully the Peak Bolt Fund can join the dots by giving the time rich but money poor the tools, equipment and technical support needed to carry out some necessary work. If you have or do enjoy sport climbing in the peak please join the effort to keep the crags in good order.

Details of Re-equipping work and News can be found below:

Friday, 2 December 2016

Peak Bolt Fund 2016 Round Up

The Peak Bolt Fund has been re-energized this year, with some keen new people getting involved with the help of a couple of BMC bolting workshops. We’ve got another one planned for March next year – message Dan Middleton if interested in attending.

Evidence of early metal working in the Peak District

At Stoney, the first half of Little Plum has been rebolted with glue-ins. The popular Tin Of at Raven Tor has 3 new glue-in bolts and a new, higher lower off. All my Pegs in One Basket, Tideswell Dale has been fully bolted with glue-ins. Rupert Davies quickly made a re-ascent of it and commented "painful finger jamming" no doubt they'll being queuing for this next summer. To the left of All my Pegs is a new route called Pretty Peggy-o which is also 8a.

Over at Rubicon, Jezebel, White Bait and Miller’s Tail have had discrete new lower offs added. Too Old to be Bold and Tribes have been fully rebolted. At Lammergeyer many new bolts have appeared those funded by the PBF include, Final Destination and the LH start, The Fall, and Vindicator. Further down the river Ape Index has had the PBF treatment and is sporting shinny new bolts. That’s something to crow about.

Down by the Millersdale viaduct Mark Rankine rejuvenated an old crag with two new routes Under The Bridge 7a, Trollhammaren 7b and rebolted Paul Mitchell's route Mister Blister; originally E6 6c on pegs now 7c+ on PBF glue-ins. More information here [Millersdale Viaduct Crag][7a-7c+]

Mark on Mister Blister 7C+
Now for the queen of crags, the Cheedale Cornice. Nemesis has a new bolt and a bolt added to the lower off. Roof Warrior has new third bolt and a new lower off. Cry of Despair has been rebolted with glue-ins, which is good as it sees a lot of air-time. Bored of the Lies/Big Zipper have a new bolt on the top bulge. No reason to be Too Pumpy for Grumpy as it has been rebolted. The popular warm-up Further Adventures In Greendale has a new bolt at the top.

You won’t get Stung at Nettle Buttress because the bolts have been replaced. Orange Sunshine and Why Me at Two Tier have new glue-ins. A Man Called Horse, Moving Buttress has been rebolted with glue-ins. Someone should let Si Wilson know.

The corroded bolts from Stung on Nettle buttress. Looks like a late finish there lads, well done!

Fishing Without A License (who would do such a thing?) at Embankment is now rebolted with glue-ins. Finally, with possibly the best route name in the Peak, Let’s Get Fossilized at Beginners Wall has also been rebolted. Sloe Gin on plum buttress is also sporting some new bolts.

Check out the peckers holding in the lower-off on Why Me/Orange Sunshine...[gulp]

There is plenty more that needs doing, so if you’d like to contribute financially please donate here:
We can’t finish without mentioning the heroic and slightly scary amount of work that has been done over the last decade or so by Kristian Clemmow. If you’re a climber on peak limestone you’ll have undoubtedly benefited from his rebolting work, so if you see him at the crag next year, offer to buy him a pint at the Red Lion afterwards, he deserves it.

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